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print your own wireless portable speaker! - best wireless portable speakers 2016

by:Bodio Electronic     2020-03-26
print your own wireless portable speaker!  -  best wireless portable speakers 2016
Have you ever thought about portable speakers like Jabra's Jambox, but not $200.
This is my first design on a portable speaker where you can use Bluetooth for wireless connection anywhere.
It also allows you to charge your phone if needed.
Check out other people's instructures after month, this is my first instructures!
This design is also the entry of the UP competition. Enjoy.
I started making my own portable speakers on Jambox and added some extra features.
For this version you need the following: Update: price and link to item ssmall USB
Power speakers with built-in amp are priced at $15 $8 and $8 if you have a portable USB charger for your phone (
1700 mAh or larger)
Each label or other tool and material: magnets3D printer for soldering iron and accessories Square (
I have a copy in my school. Screwdriver (Flat and Philips)
Wire stripping glue for phone speakers gunRubber caliingcaliperspry tool: find some speakers that fit your needs.
Test them to make sure the output is large enough.
You may need to purchase an amplifier to enhance the signal if necessary.
In the next step, the power input should be 5 v to accommodate the battery.
Turn on the speakers.
Most people have a grill in front that is easy to disassemble.
If the speakers are not assembled with screws then you have to remove the plastic around the assembly.
I took a screwdriver and a pry tool to separate the sides.
The amplifier should be in the unit with the power cord and the auxiliary power cord.
Resolve the cable back to the board if necessary.
Add hot glue to the cable so they don't pull out or short-circuit other components.
Depending on the model and capacity of the battery, the USB power charger will vary.
Most have circuits that convert the battery voltage to 5 v input/output.
It is not recommended to connect the speaker power supply directly to the battery terminal, as this may cause the battery to run out of excess of the charging limit.
Most of these units are small and there are no screws outside.
Open the box again using the pry tool.
There will be batteries and printed circuit boards (PCB).
If there are screws to fix the PCB on the chassis, remove them so they can be used freely.
Next, connect the speaker power cord to the output power supply of the battery.
I chose to cut the cable and weld it directly to the board.
This allows charging your phone or other devices while playing music.
Cut off the cable with stripping.
The red and black wires in the cable will be 5 v and GND.
The terminals on the pcb usb master port are large enough to be soldered directly to them, and there won't be much trouble.
This is the pin output of a female USB.
Respectfully connect the red and black of the power cord to the 1 and 4 of the USB terminals.
I would like to condense this unit in a tight package, and it is convenient to say that the amp is about the same size as the USB panel.
I stick them together with some hot glue and a piece of rubber to make sure the pcb doesn't short circuit each other.
You can also use the stand or custom print a piece of plastic to separate the board and have the perfect screw holes.
To connect the electronic part to the wall of the Speaker, I used two brackets.
Once you have all the components, connect them to make sure you don't have the wrong thing to weld.
It's better to test early before you're ahead of yourself and find that you 've damaged a board or worse.
If I want to use the Bluetooth module for my car stereo or other devices, I choose to keep the Bluetooth module sticky.
This means that once the internal battery is dead, I have to power it alone.
It's a small deal but keeps the speaker and Bluetooth connected module.
Measure component spacing including USB input, Bluetooth module, Speaker diameter.
The CAD of the case is done in Solidworks, but any program can make its own custom case.
In the last step, I modeled the speaker, Bluetooth module and hole mode for the USB input from the size.
The size of the speaker and amplifier will be your primary limitation on the size of the case.
I chose to use 1/4 of the material for all the walls.
From there, I can make two separate sizes for my case (
In Solidworks, there is a split command to create two separate entities from a single part).
One housing for electronic devices and the other housing for speakers.
These two can be downloaded if you are really interested.
The final model places the Bluetooth module on a sliding track with the surface re-inserted to the top of the part.
I 've seen some speakers with slit on the sides, and I think this is for the vibrating cone to balance the air pressure and produce a lower bass.
I add a bit of beauty with a angled slit instead of a straight hole.
There is no detail on the back and bottom of the case, but it is possible to add a little talent with the embossed logo or even your name.
The advantage of 3D printing is that it can make you fancy without increasing the cost.
Use Makerbot and download the Makerware beta software.
Of the few 3D printing setup programs I 've used, I found this to be the most intuitive.
After about 20 minutes, I learned the basics.
You need to export the CAD file.
Stl and import them into makerware by clicking add.
You can rotate the part and center it on the tray.
I chose to print the detail features that I care about most on the front.
This is more ideal than the z direction, as lines from each layer may not be fully aligned on each channel.
After your parts are aligned centered in the configuration you want, click Make It!
One friend mentioned that my setup was to increase the nozzle temperature by 5 degrees, add a raft structure to build the edge of the print area and tape it.
I used the fill ratio of 20% and haven't tried something more dense yet.
One of the main issues conveyed to me is that most tend to curl.
This is because the plastic cools down when the nozzle moves to a different area of the platform.
The rest of the settings are reserved as default.
I'm using active PLA silk.
You can save the file to the SD card or send it directly to the printer via USB.
Once you have the printed case, you can assemble the speakers :)
I may be damaged by the surface quality of other 3D printers, but don't try to polish the case.
It eventually makes the surface finish worse.
Test if your component is appropriate to make sure everything is as appropriate as it should be.
Small adjustments can be made using dremel if needed.
The speaker grill is very sticky.
Next, the speakers are placed on the top and the heat is glued to the surface of the grill.
Insert the electronic board into the top shell and fix it with screws and hot glue.
A small amount of foam remaining in the original speaker housing is used to prevent the side vents from entering the debris into the housing.
A small piece of hot glue around the port prevents any spacing problems.
I chose to lock the Bluetooth module on the chassis with a tiny square magnet placed around the lab.
Once you slide the module into the track, the magnet will lock it in half
Permanent attachment.
Finally, added the extra benefit of the NFC chip being connected directly to Bluetooth on the vacant top.
For those unfamiliar, NFC or close-range communications are now embedded in modern smartphones (
Apple products are not included)
Allows quick click and activation of the solution.
NFC chips require short-wave transmission and provide long enough time for mobile phones to read labels.
In order to perform a different operation, the user can write certain code to the label.
I 've always wanted to put the NFC functionality of my phone into use and I think it's time to do this through this project.
After purchasing tags that can come from many different offerings, download an app called NFC task launcher.
Click the Add button to set up a new NFC task.
You can give it a name and you can set up some tasks to start when the tag is touched.
For example, I chose to start the Bluetooth connection, Max the volume and open the music app.
When done, click save and write when your phone passes through the TAB.
The information will be stored and now you can connect immediately every time you click on the tab on the speaker without going through the sub
Set the menu for the connection.
The final product was shown under UV and I took a few days off on beach B)
The overall cost is around $50, but it's cool to tell your friends that you made this speaker.
Hopefully this will inspire you to make your own printed portable wireless speaker!
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